Me again - Let’s talk today about Chanel real gold plated hardware and in particular the iconic CC turnlock.
As a rough guideline any gold coloured hardware on pre 2008 bags is made from solid brass, with a coating of real 22k gold.
Quirky fact: I know a lot of you cannot tell the ACTUAL birth year of your vintage bag but there is a way on SOME of the early nineties bags...... On the pictures there are locks that that belong to a medium Diana - 1 series (90) and a small Kelly - 5 series (98)
1 series of course means made in the year range of 1989-1991 but once you take the lock off (this does not apply to ALL vintage locks, only a select few gold hallmark stampers would have done this) you can see the actual year, in this case of the first example it shows 90 so she was born in 1990. I have added a few more pictures of where the gold hallmarker has added what was the year of gold certification.
All the different hallmarks are fascinating too, but we will go into that another time.
Disclaimer 1 - please don’t all go and unscrew all your turnlocks tonight, but leave it to a pro who has the right tools. I has to be put back properly
Disclaimer 2 - with every respect to the current generation of Chanel SA’s, but if you asked them about this topic, most would not have a clue what you are talking about. These bags are 30+ years old, so it is very much outside their knowledge base and frame of reference. Not their fault....
This knowledge is reserved for authenticators, leather crafts people who authenticate, people who restore and collect vintage, and some good, reliable and experienced vintage Chanel re-sellers.
The gold coating; This is of course very luxurious, as the quality is exceptional, but also displays a look and aesthetic that is more ‘nineties’ however is very on-brand for Chanel.
To absolve any urban Chanel myths: In my opinion (and not just mine) it is a myth that it is pure 24k as it is typically simply too soft, and on a turnlock for instance that would just be very unsuitable.
In reality it is 22k that was widely used, so therefore a small amount of mixed alloy metal was added and that made the coating stronger and more durable. Also known as 91.67% pure gold.
The gold tone hardware that replaced it in post 2008 bags is of course still exceptional quality, but it does not have the heaviness the solid brass provides. If you have a nineties jumbo, you know exactly what I mean, and how disproportionately heavy the chain is vs the main body of the bag.
The nice thing about the gold coating is that is can be replenished, and replated, but it costs something.... so if you lose a screw I would advise you to go to Chanel, get them to match the spare part for you, and get a jeweller to dip it in gold. Yes, indeed 22k yellow gold to match the tone and the hardness, remember !
I personally really love the real gold hardware, but it is not a look suitable for everywhere, every day!
For every day I prefer the champagne coloured hardware that is more the norm of the past 5 years. Right in the middle of yellow gold and silver, it goes with everything and it is discreet.
I also love silver, because it looks so clean, and it shows the leather colour off without any clashing. Oh heck, I guess I love ALL the colours!
What hardware do you prefer; Real gold 22k Yellow shiny gold Yellow aged gold Rose gold Silver Aged ruthenium So Black/ Shiny Ruthenium Rainbow Unique materials such as Wood/Resin/Tortoiseshell (obviously not metal as such but Chanel have used it instead of hardware especially in older collectors pieces) Other!
Would you be interested in a bag with your birth year? I can barely imagine a better gift for your daughter than exactly that
If you have read all of this, you are a hero, and I am a geek. Warm regards
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